The Wordsmith

October 31, 2009

A Bit of Irish? Killeney Kopitiam, Singapore

Filed under: food — Tags: , , , , — The Wordsmith @ 6:47 am

killeney kptKilleney is such an Irish-sounding name. Well, Celtic, at the very least. But I’ll bet a million bucks there ain’t no place in Ireland called Killeney Kopitiam, nor serve the best Teh C (tea with evaporated milk) I ever tasted; or kaya and toast; or curry puffs; or fishball soup with the super large fishballs Singapore is famous for. They also have great-tasting fried tofu and chee cheong fan.

There are many Killeney Kopitiams scattered around the island. It’s a local franchise. But a few trips ago to Singapore found me a regular fixture at the branch at Lucky Plaza, Orchard Road. It’s a teeeeny tiny little place, squished into a hole in the wall. I like it. When it’s not rush hour. I find the service there a lot more personal than a few other kaya and toast places I went to in Singapore. Made me feel like that was the only Killiney in town.

October 24, 2009

Remembering Java

Filed under: Travel — Tags: , , — The Wordsmith @ 6:59 am

java_nenekA few years back, I went to Java. The non-touristy bit. To visit a friend. It was my second visit.

My camera and I made love to the people of Java. I loved taking photos of the people there. Surabaya was pretty much as I remembered it from last year, though things seemed cheaper the year before. Maybe I’ve just gone stingier.

My mind wasn’t quite geared for a holiday. Neither was my heart. But being away from Kuching is always a breath of fresh air, especially now that I’ve become a lot more sedentary.

Three hours away from Surabaya is the town of Bojonegoro - every bit as rustic, dusty and raggedy as I’d left it the last time. And the people, as lovely as ever. One of my favourite new friends is this Nenek (Granny) I met. She lives in the village of Tanjong Harjo. She’s the sweetest little thing. She loved having her pictures taken but she was oh-so-shy at the same time. She’d cup her face with her hands and giggle each time I held up the camera. She reminds me of my own grandma, who still visits me in dreams once in a while.

I don’t know if I will meet Nenek again, so this entry is for her. For touching me with her loveliness.

October 17, 2009

A Review of Shoe Technology for the Jungle – Vibram vs. Contagrip vs. Adidas Kampung Technology

dsc01902I’ve been jungle trekking since 1997. That’s 12 years. I used to be do it for business and pleasure. Now I just do it for pleasure. Twelve years of walking the jungles of Borneo, I can boil it down to three essential take-home lessons:

  1. Keep it simple. You don’t need any high-end gadgets in the jungle. GPS system? Expensive camping bits and pieces? Nothing beats a good team of local trackers and their parangs. They work in all weather conditions too. All the other branded stuff are whistles and bangs and add to the cool factor. When it boils down to it, it’s you and your team.
  2. Relax. Drop the ego and don’t try to be the first, the fastest, the bestest. Enjoy the ride, whatever level of fitness you’re at.
  3. Invest in a pair of good shoes, a pair of good shoes and a pair of good shoes. This may or may not mean a pair of expensive shoes. What are good shoes? What makes them good? Good shoes do three crucial things – they support your ankles, they support your arches and they have good shock absorption. If you suffer from plantar fasciitis, which about 30% of Asians and 25% of Americans do (I’m in that 30%), you REALLY need good shoes.

Jungle shoes that work for me are what I want to talk about today. I don’t trek for work anymore because I effectively wrecked my feet and knees bushwalking Borneo 2-3 weeks a month, every month for 5 years, through rivers (some of them raging), up mountains and down cliff-hangers, in shoes that didn’t support me. adidas-kampungAdidas kampungs are a great Malaysian invention. Village kids used to wear them to play football, then jungle trackers started using them to walk the forest because they were cheap, waterproof (100% rubber) and had fantastic grip because of the studded and super flexible soles. Generally, the average 120-pound dripping wet Malaysian with normal feet does very well with them.

I’m not your average 120-pound dripping wet Malaysian with normal feet. First off, I’m not 120 pounds. Second, I have collapsed arches. I didn’t know that at the time. I used to have spare pairs of these shoes stuffed into my backpack and use them up like wood through a chipper. They were so cheap (used to be USD1 per pair, now they’re about USD2.50), I would leave them at the village when I came out of the jungle and buy new ones the next month. They were fantastic for grip. It felt like I had tactile feet, like monkeys and apes. I could almost wrap my feet around roots for grip. But the lack of support was another thing.

dsc01903Much pain, a stint when I had to use crutches, expensive shoe inserts and on-going therapy later, I switched to my first pair of Chaco sandals, Montrail trekkers and Vibram technology. Vibram is an Italian company founded by Vitali Bramani, who invented rubber soles for shoes back in the early 1900s. The name Vibram refers to the type of soles in any brand of shoes. Vibram rubber is known to be harder, tougher than normal rubber soles and is supposedly known for their traction. In fact, back in 1935, the motivation for Vitali Bramani to invent soles for mountaineering was because he saw six of his climbing buddies slip and fall to their deaths because of inadequate footwear.

My take on Vibram: in Chaco sandals, it’s great. It’s tough, shaped to provide arch support and lasts for years. In fact, the straps in my Chacos are gone but the Vibram soles looks hardly used.

In my Montrail trekkers, for rainforest conditions, Vibram is overrated. In wet rainforest conditions, the soles are too hard and amazingly, way too slippery. I’ve lost count of the number of times I slipped whilst crossing a log in my Montrails (but not in my Adidas kampungs or my Salomons, which I’ll come to later). It felt like I was clomping around the jungle in clogs. Better support than Adidas kampungs, but a little too slippery and hard for my tender feet.

dsc01901Enter my pair of Salomon Fury, with a sole technology called Contagrip. I’d never heard of it before when I fingered the Fury at World of Outdoors in KL’s MidValley Shopping Centre. They felt pretty good on my feet though.

I didn’t break them in before I hit the trails in Bako National Park. They served me mighty well that day. About five hours of trekking. The support was there. The traction was definitely there. In fact they felt like Adidas kampungs with cushioning. They were supportive enough to cushion the impact of my extra large frame; and soft enough for my feet to dance across the jungle floor yet not too soft that they didn’t provide support.

A few months later, I trekked across the heart of Borneo island with them. Beautiful. Four hours of walking through shin-deep river and three hours of up and downhill. No problemo. For the first time in years, I felt like my feet could finally catch up with my stamina.

So, a sum-up:

  1. Adidas Kampungs – use them for water sports, etc. Fantastic. If you don’t have feet problems, collapsed arches, high arches, plantar fasciitis, or an overly large frame like mine, go for them. They’re only RM9.90 (~ USD2.50) per pair at Teck Kong or shops like that. In fact, I’m going to get a pair for kayaking purposes.
  2. Montrail, with Vibram – for rainforest conditions, I personally would not recommend them. The support is there, but the comfort – not really.
  3. Salomon Fury, with Contagrip – my favourite at the moment. Love the lacing system, love the look. Most of all, for my poor collapsed arches, love the support and flexibility.

I have a new pair of Montrail Perimeter Control, with Gryptonite soles. I’m in the process of breaking them in right now. They feel promising. More on them after I bring them out for hardcore testing.

What shoes work work for you?

N.B. Photo of Adidas Kampungs courtesy of Keong, taken from his website: http://www.my-rainforest-adventures.com/2008/12/adidas-kampung-the-ultimate-tropical-jungle-shoe/

October 10, 2009

The Sweet Happiness of Coconut Soup…and other orgasmic food

Coconut soup

I had a rather interesting soup at an eatery called Sweet Happiness the other night. It was herbal, clear, quite healthy; and cooked in young coconut. It was Chinese herbal soup with a twist. There were chicken feet, goji berries, white fungi, herbs and roots, all bunged in a fresh coconut and cooked over direct heat. The coconut husk came out a lovely brown, smoky hue. The texture of the soup was extra smooth and the natural sweetness of the coconut water pervaded throughout.

Traditionally, this was cooked in a clay pot over a wood fire for hours and hours until the bits of chicken feet in it would melt in your mouth. Putting all of that into a coconut was pretty original but it tasted so well put-together that I wondered why people didn’t think of it earlier.

The one serving of coconut soup serves only about 3 to 4 people. Any more than that, more coconuts are needed.

cangkuk manisThe usual local fare is available at Sweet Happiness – the Kuching staple of stir fried cangkuk manis (Sauropus androgynus) with egg. The Chinese call it “mani chai”. This is a local jungle plant that’s been served on dinner tables in Kuching since time immemorial. In fact, the species is found throughout Southeast Asia and is found on dinner tables everywhere in the region. Few people agree on what it’s called in English, although references are made to it as the “star gooseberry” or “sweet leaf”.

The curry fish is an interesting anomaly. Curry and fish are not a very Chinese combination. Somehow, the chef at SH has managed to combine the two and produced a curry fish that not only has a very sino-traditional taste,  but a sino-traditional fishy curry that doesn’t taste too bad at all. I normally take curry or fish and seldom the two together, but I’ll concede that this was not a bad dish, especially when it’s complemented with white rice.

curry fish kungpow porkI was rather in love with the three-layered pork and the soft white buns to wrap around it. One could feel the fat and meat give way as one’s teeth cut through it. Sinful and almost orgasmic. Quite a lethal combination in public, I can tell you that.

It was a very affordable dinner, considering that there were 5 things on the table, beer and whatnot. It came to RM17 each. That’s USD5. Five-course Chinese dinners seldom come at USD5 per head. The chef at SH used to work in Kuching’s oldest and once grandest restaurant. So the place does have a good track record.

Sweet Happiness, behind the Stutong roundabout, Kuching. They kept me happy that night.

October 3, 2009

Parallels

Filed under: lifestyle — Tags: , , , — The Wordsmith @ 6:42 am

Naxi lady

Somewhere in Vancouver, my friend Lou is in his home. He’s probably fast asleep as I type. Maybe he’s tapping at his keyboard, writing out those words of his I find so absorbing.

Somewhere in Africa, Kate is tracking elephants. Maybe she’s at her lab, analyzing data. I don’t know. I don’t know the time difference between here and Tanzania.

Somewhere in New York, or maybe California, I don’t know where he is right now, Ian is sending good thoughts to his loved ones.

Somewhere in Yunnan China, a little old lady gets ready to take her daily afternoon walk.

Somewhere in Long Lellang, the folks I haven’t seen for so long are hard at work in the farm. It’s another couple of hours before the day winds down for them and they head home.

And right here, right now, as all these people are doing their thing, here I am, sitting at my desk, thinking about all the parallels and possibilities that this little mind can possibly conceive of.

Photo: This little old lady takes a daily walk every afternoon. She is of the Naxi people in Yunnan, China. I didn’t ask her, but I guess her age to be a 100, judging from other little old ladies I have met and asked in that area of Yunnan. I wonder how many great-great-great grandchildren she has. I wish I had had the time to talk to her and hear her stories.

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